瓦子裡面不是一個空間,是很多個空間拼在一起,像一個迷宮,每個角落都在發生不同的事。
這邊是一個圍了一圈人的場子,中間站著一個說書人,手裡拿著摺扇,正說到緊要關頭,台下的人屏氣凝神,連呼吸聲都小了。
那邊是一個唱曲的,是個女子,聲音很細,很高,像一根針,穿過嘈雜的人聲,清清楚楚地落進耳朵裡。
再過去是幾個在表演雜耍的,一個男人把三個圓球拋在空中,另一個踩著高蹺在人群裡穿梭,旁邊圍著的孩子張著嘴,眼睛跟著球轉。
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我忍不住側耳聽了一下鄰桌客人點的是什麼,然後指著單子問堂倌:「他們剛才點的那個蟹釀橙,是什麼?」
堂倌解釋說,是把螃蟹的肉取出來,加了薑醋調味,填回橙子裡蒸,蟹肉吸了橙子的香氣,橙子也滲了蟹的鮮,兩個味道合在一起,是這個季節最好的吃法。
我說,我要一個。
然後我又多點了幾樣,羊肉燉的、一道清炒的時蔬、一碗湯,外加一壺酒。
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茶博士過來問我要什麼茶。
我說隨便,你覺得好的就行。
他不一會兒端著茶具回來,在我桌上擺開,動作很穩,很從容,然後提起茶壺開始注水,這一下我就看直了。
他把茶壺舉得很高,水柱細細地往下落,落進茶碗裡,一滴不外濺,然後他的手腕微微一轉,水柱在最後關頭收得乾乾淨淨,利落得像表演。全程沒有看碗,眼睛是往外看著的,就好像那個水柱會自己找到它該去的地方。
我忍不住問他:「你練這個練了多久?」
他想了一下,說:「從學徒開始算,大概七八年了。」
七八年,就為了把茶水倒得好看。
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宋朝之前,中國的城市有「宵禁」的規矩,執行得非常嚴格。
城裡被劃成一個一個的「坊」,天黑之後坊門關上,任何人不得在街上行走,違者杖打二十,情節嚴重的還要加刑。
宋朝來了,把這套規矩,廢掉了。
城市從一個每天定時關機的地方,變成了二十四小時運轉的生意場。
我買了幾顆梅子,酸甜的,嚼著走。
再過去是賣餛飩的,個頭小小的,湯是清的,撒了蔥花,看起來很素,但香氣鑽進鼻子裡就走不掉。
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夥計遞給我一張單子,上面寫著附近幾家店的菜色,讓我選。
我在宋朝,公元十二世紀,距離現在將近一千年前,然後眼前這個夥計在跟我說,你可以叫外賣。
這在泉州很普遍。
不只是客棧,城裡的有錢人家、官員府邸,甚至一些忙著做生意沒空出門的商人,都會叫人去取食。
外賣、代購、跑腿這些服務,讓宋朝變成不像是古代的地方。
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泉州,有一條巷子叫蕃坊,那裡是阿拉伯這些新住民的家園。
有的人是爺爺的爺爺的爺爺的時候,過來的。
這些阿拉伯人在宋朝蕃坊住了好幾代,一代傳一代...
這裡雖然離家很遠,但夠安全,政權又穩定,錢又好賺!
宋朝沒有要求這些新住民變成什麼,只是給了他們一塊地方,他們慢慢長成了願意留下來的樣子。
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歷史課本沒告訴你的宋朝,這裡讓你見識.
你以為宋朝是隻弱雞,它卻靠著海上貿易,成為當時世界最富有的國家之一。
這一集,跟著我們去泉州旅行,說不定還能發現賺錢商機。畢竟,那可是一座空氣中都飄著錢味的城市。
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How this podcast ranks in the Apple Podcasts, Spotify and YouTube charts.
Apple Podcasts | #71 |










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