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Artwork for The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

Neely Quinn
Climbing
Bouldering
Sleep
Training
Climbing Performance
Nutrition For Climbers
Mental Health
Nutrition
Plant-Based Diet
Cognitive Behavioral Therapy
Insomnia
Hueco
Mindset Coaching
Waco
Mental Preparation
Climbing Drills
5'11 Climbing
Motherhood
Supplements
Anxiety

Hosted by climber, nutritionist, and mindset coach, Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation with rock climbing’s best and brightest, including pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community. You’ll learn how to train for climbing, how to fuel yourself well for climbing, and mindset strategies to help you perform well on the wall... more

PublishesTwice monthlyEpisodes333Founded12 years ago
Number of ListenersCategories
NutritionSportsHealth & FitnessWilderness

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Artwork for The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

Latest Episodes

Coach Matt Pincus and I sat down and talked through 3 habits that we have formed over months or years that have led us to become better climbers.

Matt’s 3 Habits

• Doing his finger training as part of his warmup for indoor sessions

• Having a clea... more

YouTube

Dr. Tyler Nelson came on the show to talk about common wrist injuries and how to rehab them so you can get back to climbing and training how you want to. You may remember that I had wrist surgery on my TFCC and my husband had wrist surgery for ulnar ... more

YouTube

Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist and a climber who’s incredibly motivated to help other climbers heal their bodies. In this interview, we talk about capsulitis, which is a common finger injury that climbers get. He describes what capsulitis is,... more

YouTube

The Enneagram is a personality typing method that I’ve been super interested in for a few years now. I try to type all of my friends, my clients, and other people around me to help me understand them better and have more compassion for them. Knowing ... more

YouTube

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Recent Guests

Matt Pincus
Coach specializing in climbing training and mindset
TrainingBeta
Episode: TBP 301: Three Habits That Have Made Matt and Me Better Climbers
Dr. Tyler Nelson
Health care provider specializing in climbing injuries, with a focus on rehab and performance.
Camp4 Human Performance
Episode: TBP 300: Wrist Injury Rehab for Climbers with Dr. Tyler Nelson
Dr. Jared Vagy
Doctor of physical therapy and author of Climb Injury-Free
University of Southern California
Episode: TBP 299: Dr. Jared Vagy on Finger Capsulitis
Becca Droz
Climbing coach and certified Enneagram coach
Sunrise Mindset
Episode: TBP 298: Enneagram Personality Types in Climbing w/ Becca Droz
Jana Unterholtzner
Sport and performance psychologist and passionate recreational climber
Climbing Psychology
Episode: TBP 297: Overcoming Mental Side of Injuries w/ Jana Unterholzner
Katie O'Brien
Emergency medicine physician and functional medicine specialist.
Inner Garden Health Functional Medicine
Episode: TBP 295: Climber & Doctor Katie O'Brien on Perimenopause: Hormone Replacement Therapy, Nutrition, Supplements
Katelin Hollowell
Climber with a background in indoor bouldering and a focus on improving outdoor climbing skills.
Episode: TBP 294 :: Nutrition Session with Climber for Sugar Cravings and Weight Gain
Kat Lumby
Sport and exercise psychologist in training, climbing coach, and works with climbers, surfers, and athletes.
Labyrinth Climbing
Episode: TBP 293: Sport Psychologist Kat Lumby Uses REBT to Deal with Fear in Climbing
Luke Parady
Strong climber and partner of Alex Stiger, with a focus on nutrition and recovery.
Episode: TBP 292: How 13 Elite Climbers Approach Rest Days

Host

Neely Quinn
Host of a climbing-focused podcast, offering insights on training, nutrition, and mindset strategies for climbers.

Reviews

4.6 out of 5 stars from 729 ratings
  • Where did all the content go?

    There are only 15 episodes available. I wanted to listen to some older podcasts.

    Apple Podcasts
    4
    Reverend Jim 70
    United Statesa year ago
  • There is so much freely shared resources on this podcast. Neely interviews a lot of great guests and can be very vulnerable herself. Highly recommended for climbers (and also parents of climbers). I finish episodes always wanting to contact Neely to say thanks again.

    Podcast Addict
    5
    Nolan
    a year ago
  • Psychobabel

    Unlistenable…Psychobabel as of 2024

    Apple Podcasts
    2
    JT123@@
    United States2 years ago
  • OG Training Podcast

    Love to listen to Neely and Alex chatting. Lots of good info.

    Apple Podcasts
    5
    Richie901111
    United States2 years ago
  • Motivating, empowering and great company ☺️

    The most pleasant, fun, informative and all-round climbing podcast.

    I listen to some episodes two or three times sometimes and each time I find a takeaway.

    Just now I have finished listening to the episode with climber&mum Majka Burhardt and I am SO grateful for it! Her words and even her tone of voice.. I can relate to so much of what she’s saying.

    Neely your podcast has so much value!

    Sometimes when I listen to it, it feels like I’m having a chat with some of my best friends!😄

    XX Lucía

    Apple Podcasts
    5
    luinhawea
    New Zealand3 years ago

Listeners Say

Key themes from listener reviews, highlighting what works and what could be improved about the show.

The podcast is viewed as a helpful resource for both climbing techniques and mental health strategies, particularly for those navigating personal challenges within the sport.
There are mixed reactions to the host's interviewing style, with some praising her ability to engage and draw out valuable insights from guests, while others criticize a perceived lack of energy or preparedness.
Listeners appreciate the diverse range of topics and expert guests, often finding the conversations informative and motivational.

Chart Rankings

How this podcast ranks in the Apple Podcasts, Spotify and YouTube charts.

Talking Points

Recent interactions between the hosts and their guests.

TBP 300: Wrist Injury Rehab for Climbers with Dr. Tyler Nelson
Q: How long should someone wait before they see a professional about a wrist injury?
If it's someone that has a wrist injury and they never had wrist pain before, get a look at that right away, don't waste your time or your energy trying to figure it out on your own.
TBP 300: Wrist Injury Rehab for Climbers with Dr. Tyler Nelson
Q: What do you want people to get out of today's conversation?
Essentially the big management thing comes down to taking a good history. Knowing the climber's training volume and exposure to certain types of things leads to better diagnoses.
TBP 300: Wrist Injury Rehab for Climbers with Dr. Tyler Nelson
Q: What are the most common wrist injuries that you see?
The number one is essentially synovitis in the ulnar carpal recess, and the second one is ulnar impaction syndrome.
TBP 300: Wrist Injury Rehab for Climbers with Dr. Tyler Nelson
Q: Can you tell me about your clinical focus on upper extremity climbing injuries first, before we get into that?
The majority of my consults are upper extremity overuse injuries; lots of finger injuries, of course, and elbows and shoulders are common too.
TBP 299: Dr. Jared Vagy on Finger Capsulitis
Q: What is the best way to treat an injured finger joint?
Unloading, improving mobility, strengthening, and proper movement training work together to rehabilitate the joint.

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Frequently Asked Questions About This Podcast

What is This Podcast about and what kind of topics does it cover?

A blend of expert discussions and personal insights shapes each episode, focusing on training techniques, nutrition, and mental strategies related to climbing. The content is designed for climbers of all levels, offering valuable tips that promote skill improvement and fitness, alongside motivational dialogues to enhance the climbing experience. Each episode often features professionals from various sectors of the climbing community, including elite climbers and trainers, who share their knowledge and experiences to inspire listeners to push their limits and achieve personal growth in their climbing journey.

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Which podcasts are similar to this podcast?

These podcasts share a similar audience with this podcast:

1. The Struggle Climbing Show
2. The Testpiece Podcast
3. The Careless Talk Climbing Podcast
4. The RunOut Podcast
5. The Enormocast: the climbing podcast

How many episodes of this podcast are there?

this podcast launched 12 years ago and published 333 episodes to date. You can find more information about this podcast including rankings, audience demographics and engagement in our podcast database.

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What guests have appeared on this podcast?

Recent guests on this podcast include:

1. Matt Pincus
2. Dr. Tyler Nelson
3. Dr. Jared Vagy
4. Becca Droz
5. Jana Unterholtzner
6. Katie O'Brien
7. Katelin Hollowell
8. Kat Lumby

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