A Surfer's Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves
DaveJoin Dave, a surfer who's spent years traveling the world, living the surf-optimized life. "A Surfer's Notebook" is his collection of true stories and personal reflections from that journey. Beyond perfect waves, Dave shares insights on surf culture, analyzes interesting breaks, describes unforgettable characters, and explores the unexpected connections he's found along the way – from the physics ... more
| Publishes | Weekly | Episodes | 29 | Founded | 8 months ago |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Number of Listeners | Categories | Personal JournalsSociety & Culture | |||
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Once I knew what to look for I started recognizing tipping points everywhere. I found the first one on the mountainside in rural Japan but realized I'd experienced one just a few days earlier in the water, during the height of the typhoon swell. Both... more
What's it like to live in the "Wave Hunter" and surf typhoon swells in Japan? Follow the ups and downs of this eventful week on the Miyazaki coast.
Today we are kicking of the Japan series... which includes multiple notes from my extended stay and extensive search for surf in Japan. This first note covers how I came to decide that spending several months in Japan to find my stoke would be a good... more
Each swell follows a predictable arc that plays out in the surf community. Here's how it goes...
Read this note and see pics and diagrams here:
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Apple Podcasts | #146 |  Indonesia/Society & Culture/Personal Journals |
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this podcast launched 8 months ago and published 29 episodes to date. You can find more information about this podcast including rankings, audience demographics and engagement in our podcast database.
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